Final Reflections:
1. Planning & Packing – It is truly amazing how little you need to travel the Camino with. This isn't just about the weight of your pack, although that is certainly a great motivator to culling through your things as your journey proceeds. You literally need very little on the Camino. I carried three sets of socks and underwear, plus three t-shirts. Washing my clothes daily meant that I could easily have made do with two of each. I had one pair of walking shorts, plus a pair of ultra light shorts to change into at the end of the day.
2. Training & Preparation - Unless you belong to a walking club that tours the world, you will be unlikely to have trained for every type of terrain that the Camino will toss at you. Steep ascents and equally steep (or steeper) descents, paths that are little more than washed out streams, narrow paths running between steep embankments that you often have to share with a herd of cows, the Camino has all of this and much more. The joke about the Meseta (the vast flat plains in the middle of the Camino) is that you will see a tree on the horizon and two hot and dusty hours later it is still on the horizon! The good news is that you will, like most who have walked before you, handle each of these in stride. Walk the Camino at your own pace and you can do it.
3. Mental Preparation.... The Camino is, after all, a pilgrimage, a time for reflection. It is not a tourist trip through Spain. You need to be mentally prepared for long bouts of reflective thinking. You need to be prepared for long periods of being alone with your thoughts. This can be good, or not so good. I found my thoughts often reflecting on my marriage and my family. On how I was blessed to have both and wondering (if ever so fleetingly) how I had deserved such blessings.
4. People – Walking the Camino is about people, if nothing else. It is about meeting people and establishing relationships with those with whom you will often have little in common. Including language. My fondest memories of my Camino are the people I met and the times we shared.
5. Cyclists.... Increasingly there are people who do the Camino on bicycles. Often they are on the roads that sometimes parallel the Camino. However, many who ride mountain bikes will take the trail itself. None that I encountered had or used a bell on their bike. Almost all race down the trail expecting you to know of their approach and jump our of the way. Sharing the trail to many of them simply means that walkers give way to them. So, beware!
6. The Camino – When all is said and done, there were aspects of the Camino I found disappointing, or sad. The annual numbers of peregrinos now tops 140,000. With that, our modern material world is slowly taking over the Camino. I don't mean cellphones, although rare was the person I encountered without a cellphone or iPhone. No, I mean our modern world's propensity for trashing our surroundings. Too often, walking the Camino, I came across empty water bottles, drink containers, power bar wrappers, and even soiled bathroom tissues. The Camino is an ancient and honoured pilgrimage route. Unfortunately, too often for many of those you meet along the way today's Camino is just a cheap holiday.
Walking the Camino you almost get the feeling that you're in another world. It is not, as some would say, a return to simpler times. You cannot escape the modern world on the Camino. And I think to try and use the Camino for this purpose is to misunderstand it. It's a reflective journey that forces you to reconnect with the world around you, not to escape it. It forces you to reconnect through the people you meet and friendships you gain. It's learning more about the world through the people who live here.
Would I walk the Camino again? It's a question many friends have asked. When I completed the Camino, I was glad to have done it. I had no thoughts of doing it again. I wasn't even sure that, if asked, I would suggest to someone that they should do it. Now, a number of weeks after completing it, I am less sure. Having completed the Camino, I feel that it is still with me. I feel that I more fully understand some of the people I had met who were doing a second or third Camino. You finish your walk, but I'm less sure that you ever finish with the Camino.
Would I walk the Camino again? To be perfectly honest, I don't know. But it wouldn't be anytime soon :-)
Sunday, November 13, 2011
Wednesday, October 5, 2011
October 5, 2011
Home at last! I arrived back yesterday to be greeted at the airport by my lovely wife and a welcoming bouquet of balloons! Last night I was dead tired from jet lag, etc. but very happy to be home at last.
Thursday, September 29, 2011
September 29, 2011
Yesterday, I arrived!! I am now in Santiago de Compostela having completed my Camino.
I arrived after an 18 km walk in from Arca. I left there at about 7:45 in the morning.... in the dark.... in the rain. Which is much as it was when I started this so many mornings ago in Pamplona. The first half (approximately) was through eucalyptus forests.... I now know what they look like. Interestingly, I would guess that about a quarter of the walk was around the Santiago airport!
I arrived in front of the Cathedral in Santiago at about 1:30. The first thing I did, as a macho long-distance hiker was to call my wife and ball my eyes out. I wasn´t emtotional on the walk in, but the minute I tried to tell her that I had arrived, the flood gates openned.
I was also met by a couple of great friends from back home. They were vacationing in Galicia with another couple and they greeted me with signs reading "Go Bob Go". I strongly suggested that Bob wasn´t going to "Go" anywhere for a while. They were the perfect tonic to my unforeseen emotional arrival. They really raised my spirits and I am forever grateful for that.
After that, I checked into my hotel and slept for about 5 hours.
This morning I went to the Pilgrims Office and got my "compostela".... the document showing that I finished the Camino. Then I went to the Pilgrims Mass in the cathedral. At the start they list all the pilgrims who had arrived that day, their starting points and nationality.
I´m also meeting up with many of the different people I´ve met along the way. We hug, compare notes, exchange email addresses and then go our separate way. Some will stay a few days in Santiago. Some will go one to Finisterre, mostly by bus. Some begin the journey home tomorrow.
I don´t think that this is the end of the blog, although it is certainly the end of the story of the walk. I plan to organize my thoughts on the Camino, and the effectiveness of my preparations for it
And, now it´s back to the hotel to give my ankle some more rest. Tomorrow, I vacation as a tourist Santiago.
P.S. I have taken many pictures and it is my intention to post some of them on the blog. But, that will have to wait until I get home and have my wife to show me how to do it!
I arrived after an 18 km walk in from Arca. I left there at about 7:45 in the morning.... in the dark.... in the rain. Which is much as it was when I started this so many mornings ago in Pamplona. The first half (approximately) was through eucalyptus forests.... I now know what they look like. Interestingly, I would guess that about a quarter of the walk was around the Santiago airport!
I arrived in front of the Cathedral in Santiago at about 1:30. The first thing I did, as a macho long-distance hiker was to call my wife and ball my eyes out. I wasn´t emtotional on the walk in, but the minute I tried to tell her that I had arrived, the flood gates openned.
I was also met by a couple of great friends from back home. They were vacationing in Galicia with another couple and they greeted me with signs reading "Go Bob Go". I strongly suggested that Bob wasn´t going to "Go" anywhere for a while. They were the perfect tonic to my unforeseen emotional arrival. They really raised my spirits and I am forever grateful for that.
After that, I checked into my hotel and slept for about 5 hours.
This morning I went to the Pilgrims Office and got my "compostela".... the document showing that I finished the Camino. Then I went to the Pilgrims Mass in the cathedral. At the start they list all the pilgrims who had arrived that day, their starting points and nationality.
I´m also meeting up with many of the different people I´ve met along the way. We hug, compare notes, exchange email addresses and then go our separate way. Some will stay a few days in Santiago. Some will go one to Finisterre, mostly by bus. Some begin the journey home tomorrow.
I don´t think that this is the end of the blog, although it is certainly the end of the story of the walk. I plan to organize my thoughts on the Camino, and the effectiveness of my preparations for it
And, now it´s back to the hotel to give my ankle some more rest. Tomorrow, I vacation as a tourist Santiago.
P.S. I have taken many pictures and it is my intention to post some of them on the blog. But, that will have to wait until I get home and have my wife to show me how to do it!
Tuesday, September 27, 2011
September 27, 2011
Well, after some 33 days and (near as I can tell) 700+ km, I am 20 km away from Santiago. If all goes well and the ankle holds out, I will enter Santiago tomorrow afternoon, sometime between 1:30 and 2:30 pm. I know I should be excited, and on some plane I am. Right now too tired, but I promise to get excited tomorrow.... trust me!
Today was a 22 km walk through some very pleasant forests and farmland. Nothing terribly strenuous. The ankle is holding up so far. Not pleasant to walk on, but not really all that painful as long as I watch my step.
The albergue I stayed at last night in Arzua was very pleasant. Very clean and uncrowded dormatories. Tonight´s albergue is equally nice. I´ve found that the further I get into Galicia, the better the private albergues become. I mean you´re still sleeping on a bunkbed in a room with 15 - 30 strangers, and how pleasant can that be? But, these have been some of the best.
I was thinking today that I have been lax, very lax, in thanking someone who has been there all along for me on this journey of mine. My wife, Anne-Marie, has been my chief coach and cheerleader, even when she wasn´t sure just why I was undertaking this thing. On the darker moments of this journey when I would be depressed by injury or fatigue, it was she who kept me motivated. On the longer and lonelier stretches of this walk, I would imagine her hand slipping into mine and that would raise my spirits and lighten my step. I can honestly say that both of us, not just I will complete this journey tomorrow. Hon, I know that you thought that I was just a little crazy to undertake this but you totally supported me nonetheless. I know that I can never thank you enough for believing in me as you have done.... but I will certainly try. I love you. I miss you. I cannot wait to see you next week.
Today was a 22 km walk through some very pleasant forests and farmland. Nothing terribly strenuous. The ankle is holding up so far. Not pleasant to walk on, but not really all that painful as long as I watch my step.
The albergue I stayed at last night in Arzua was very pleasant. Very clean and uncrowded dormatories. Tonight´s albergue is equally nice. I´ve found that the further I get into Galicia, the better the private albergues become. I mean you´re still sleeping on a bunkbed in a room with 15 - 30 strangers, and how pleasant can that be? But, these have been some of the best.
I was thinking today that I have been lax, very lax, in thanking someone who has been there all along for me on this journey of mine. My wife, Anne-Marie, has been my chief coach and cheerleader, even when she wasn´t sure just why I was undertaking this thing. On the darker moments of this journey when I would be depressed by injury or fatigue, it was she who kept me motivated. On the longer and lonelier stretches of this walk, I would imagine her hand slipping into mine and that would raise my spirits and lighten my step. I can honestly say that both of us, not just I will complete this journey tomorrow. Hon, I know that you thought that I was just a little crazy to undertake this but you totally supported me nonetheless. I know that I can never thank you enough for believing in me as you have done.... but I will certainly try. I love you. I miss you. I cannot wait to see you next week.
Monday, September 26, 2011
September 26, 2011
It´s the day after the last post and I haven´t changed my plans yet! This is a minor miracle. I am 40 km from Santiago de Compostela! I will walk tomorrow to Arca, and then on Sept 28 I hope to enter Santiago.
I say hope because there is a fly in the ointment. I appear to be walking on a sprained ankle. Well, actually I am walking on a sprained ankle, albeit a minor one. The rest day I took back in Portomarin was good for the body but not long enough for the ankle.
I find that with a good taping each morning, I can walk fine on it. I just have to watch when the path gets a little rough. However, on the plus side I am developing amazing slalom-like skills with my walking poles. Confuses the hell out of anyone walking behind me. The more so since most of whom I´ve met on the Camino have no idea about winter sports.
Today, I did about 21 km. I had planned a careful walk stopping at any albergue or bar along the way to rest. Unfortunately, every one within the first 11 or so km was closed! Finally, just outside of Lobreiro, I ran into the Bar Of The Two Germans (actually the name was in German and Spanish, but that´s the translation!). I also ran into two Canadians, from Saint John NB. We had a great time talking about my old NB stomping grounds and what the Camino is like. They had just started in Sarria, which is the closest point to Santiago from which you can start and still be considered to have walked the Camino. Anyway, the chat led to a much longer and needed rest.
Only dissappointment today was that I didn´t stop to eat in Melida, the next town on the way. Melida is famous for its pulpo galego, octopus in the Galegan style. I´d had it earlier in the Camino and it is delicious.
Tomorrow´s walk is about 2/3´s on natural paths shaded by eucalyptus trees, as if I would recognize them. I´ll cross three river valleys, the rios Ladron, Languello and Burgo. Hopefully, I end up tomorrow at Arca, last major town before Santiago. At least, that´s the plan :-)
I say hope because there is a fly in the ointment. I appear to be walking on a sprained ankle. Well, actually I am walking on a sprained ankle, albeit a minor one. The rest day I took back in Portomarin was good for the body but not long enough for the ankle.
I find that with a good taping each morning, I can walk fine on it. I just have to watch when the path gets a little rough. However, on the plus side I am developing amazing slalom-like skills with my walking poles. Confuses the hell out of anyone walking behind me. The more so since most of whom I´ve met on the Camino have no idea about winter sports.
Today, I did about 21 km. I had planned a careful walk stopping at any albergue or bar along the way to rest. Unfortunately, every one within the first 11 or so km was closed! Finally, just outside of Lobreiro, I ran into the Bar Of The Two Germans (actually the name was in German and Spanish, but that´s the translation!). I also ran into two Canadians, from Saint John NB. We had a great time talking about my old NB stomping grounds and what the Camino is like. They had just started in Sarria, which is the closest point to Santiago from which you can start and still be considered to have walked the Camino. Anyway, the chat led to a much longer and needed rest.
Only dissappointment today was that I didn´t stop to eat in Melida, the next town on the way. Melida is famous for its pulpo galego, octopus in the Galegan style. I´d had it earlier in the Camino and it is delicious.
Tomorrow´s walk is about 2/3´s on natural paths shaded by eucalyptus trees, as if I would recognize them. I´ll cross three river valleys, the rios Ladron, Languello and Burgo. Hopefully, I end up tomorrow at Arca, last major town before Santiago. At least, that´s the plan :-)
Sunday, September 25, 2011
September 25, 2011
Welcome to the Camino where things rarely turn out as planned.
Had planned on a stop at Ventas do Naron. Turns out to be two albergues (very nice) and nothing else. When you arrive at where you plan to spend the night, it nice to have a town (or small village) to stroll through after a shower and rest. So, I´m in Palas de Rei.
Stopped in Ventas at one of the albergues for a beer, and had a very nice chat with a Danish couple. One of the great joys of the Camino is the people you meet from around the world. I´ve met people from all over Europe, of course. But also from Brazil, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, Korea, South Africa, and Iceland.
Anyway, we gat to talking and I mentionned that one of the things I was looking for was the eucalyptus trees that are so prevalent through Galicia. Turns out I´d already walked through an entire grove of them and didn´t even know it!
Plans for the rest of the trip have been revised again. What can I say, it´s an ongoing Camino hobby! I.m back to arriving in Santiago on Sept 28, again. Stay tuned for further developments:-)
Had planned on a stop at Ventas do Naron. Turns out to be two albergues (very nice) and nothing else. When you arrive at where you plan to spend the night, it nice to have a town (or small village) to stroll through after a shower and rest. So, I´m in Palas de Rei.
Stopped in Ventas at one of the albergues for a beer, and had a very nice chat with a Danish couple. One of the great joys of the Camino is the people you meet from around the world. I´ve met people from all over Europe, of course. But also from Brazil, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, Korea, South Africa, and Iceland.
Anyway, we gat to talking and I mentionned that one of the things I was looking for was the eucalyptus trees that are so prevalent through Galicia. Turns out I´d already walked through an entire grove of them and didn´t even know it!
Plans for the rest of the trip have been revised again. What can I say, it´s an ongoing Camino hobby! I.m back to arriving in Santiago on Sept 28, again. Stay tuned for further developments:-)
Saturday, September 24, 2011
September 24, 2011
What I didn´t mention in yesterday´s blog was that I didn´t so much enter Portomarin as limp in. An old problem has arisen. When I took off my boots yesterday one of my ankles had swollen quite a bit. Very painful to walk on. So, today is now a rest day in Portomarin. I iced the ankle last night and kept it elevated. Much better today, but still would benefit from a little more rest. Just grin and bear it :-)
I think I´m now planning on entering Santiago de Compostela on the morning of Friday September 30. I´ll stop for the night at Monte Gozo, about 5 km outside of Santiago. The rationale for stopping when I´m practically there relates to the Pilgrim´s Office. When you enter Santiago, all peregrinos register with the Pilgrim´s Office to receive their compostela. This also ensures that you are mentionned in the next day´s pilgrim´s mass (I think it´s next day) that takes place in the Cathedral. By mid-morning, the lineup at the Pilgrim´s Office can be long enough to cause almost an hour´s wait.
Reflections:
I had thought that I would end this blog once I´m back home with some thoughts and reflections on the Camino. But, since I now have some time on my hands, here are some initial thoughts to be honed and finetuned later.
1. Physical Training & Preparation.... No matter how much you train, it will likly never be enough. The variety of terrain through which you must go is amazing. Outside of the young people, almost no one completes the Camino without some damage, albeit temporary. It becomes a fact of life in the albergues to see people treating their feet and walking around with bandages on them. Foot problems, and their treatment, are a staple of conversation on the Camino. Your training should not only include distance but also elevation. Be prepared to walk up and down incessantly.
2. Mental Preparation.... This is the tricky one. Because people will always walk at their own pace, unless you travel in a close group and consciously stay together you will almost always spend some part of the day walking alone. To put it bluntly, large parts of the Camino are rather uninteresting. The Meseta is magical when first encountered, but after a few days the heat and flat plains do get to you. Walking through Galician farmland is fascinating, but after a while the farm smells and cow dung on the trail do begin to lose their magical quality. Couple this with a general tiredness which all seem to feel as the Camino progresses, and it takes a mental toughness to keep going. Walking alone the mind will wander and you will find yourself questionning this trek. It can be hard to keep going when it is so easy just to call it a day and cab it to the next town.
The Camino is an interesting thing. At times it seems almost alive. You don´t take on the Camino. You don´t try and beat the Camino, or conquer it. You have to treat it with respect or it will wallop you down. After walking for four weeks, these are the kind of conversations that peregrinos have at the end of the day. You´re not going crazy, you´re just beginning to understand the Camino.
I think I´m now planning on entering Santiago de Compostela on the morning of Friday September 30. I´ll stop for the night at Monte Gozo, about 5 km outside of Santiago. The rationale for stopping when I´m practically there relates to the Pilgrim´s Office. When you enter Santiago, all peregrinos register with the Pilgrim´s Office to receive their compostela. This also ensures that you are mentionned in the next day´s pilgrim´s mass (I think it´s next day) that takes place in the Cathedral. By mid-morning, the lineup at the Pilgrim´s Office can be long enough to cause almost an hour´s wait.
Reflections:
I had thought that I would end this blog once I´m back home with some thoughts and reflections on the Camino. But, since I now have some time on my hands, here are some initial thoughts to be honed and finetuned later.
1. Physical Training & Preparation.... No matter how much you train, it will likly never be enough. The variety of terrain through which you must go is amazing. Outside of the young people, almost no one completes the Camino without some damage, albeit temporary. It becomes a fact of life in the albergues to see people treating their feet and walking around with bandages on them. Foot problems, and their treatment, are a staple of conversation on the Camino. Your training should not only include distance but also elevation. Be prepared to walk up and down incessantly.
2. Mental Preparation.... This is the tricky one. Because people will always walk at their own pace, unless you travel in a close group and consciously stay together you will almost always spend some part of the day walking alone. To put it bluntly, large parts of the Camino are rather uninteresting. The Meseta is magical when first encountered, but after a few days the heat and flat plains do get to you. Walking through Galician farmland is fascinating, but after a while the farm smells and cow dung on the trail do begin to lose their magical quality. Couple this with a general tiredness which all seem to feel as the Camino progresses, and it takes a mental toughness to keep going. Walking alone the mind will wander and you will find yourself questionning this trek. It can be hard to keep going when it is so easy just to call it a day and cab it to the next town.
The Camino is an interesting thing. At times it seems almost alive. You don´t take on the Camino. You don´t try and beat the Camino, or conquer it. You have to treat it with respect or it will wallop you down. After walking for four weeks, these are the kind of conversations that peregrinos have at the end of the day. You´re not going crazy, you´re just beginning to understand the Camino.
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