September 29, 2011

Yesterday, I arrived!! I am now in Santiago de Compostela having completed my Camino.

I arrived after an 18 km walk in from Arca. I left there at about 7:45 in the morning.... in the dark.... in the rain. Which is much as it was when I started this so many mornings ago in Pamplona. The first half (approximately) was through eucalyptus forests.... I now know what they look like. Interestingly, I would guess that about a quarter of the walk was around the Santiago airport!

I arrived in front of the Cathedral in Santiago at about 1:30. The first thing I did, as a macho long-distance hiker was to call my wife and ball my eyes out. I wasn´t emtotional on the walk in, but the minute I tried to tell her that I had arrived, the flood gates openned.

I was also met by a couple of great friends from back home. They were vacationing in Galicia with another couple and they greeted me with signs reading "Go Bob Go". I strongly suggested that Bob wasn´t going to "Go" anywhere for a while. They were the perfect tonic to my unforeseen emotional arrival. They really raised my spirits and I am forever grateful for that.

After that, I checked into my hotel and slept for about 5 hours.

This morning I went to the Pilgrims Office and got my "compostela".... the document showing that I finished the Camino. Then I went to the Pilgrims Mass in the cathedral. At the start they list all the pilgrims who had arrived that day, their starting points and nationality.

I´m also meeting up with many of the different people I´ve met along the way. We hug, compare notes, exchange email addresses and then go our separate way. Some will stay a few days in Santiago. Some will go one to Finisterre, mostly by bus. Some begin the journey home tomorrow.

I don´t think that this is the end of the blog, although it is certainly the end of the story of the walk. I plan to organize my thoughts on the Camino, and the effectiveness of my preparations for it

And, now it´s back to the hotel to give my ankle some more rest. Tomorrow, I vacation as a tourist Santiago.

P.S. I have taken many pictures and it is my intention to post some of them on the blog. But, that will have to wait until I get home and have my wife to show me how to do it!

September 27, 2011

Well, after some 33 days and (near as I can tell) 700+ km, I am 20 km away from Santiago. If all goes well and the ankle holds out, I will enter Santiago tomorrow afternoon, sometime between 1:30 and 2:30 pm. I know I should be excited, and on some plane I am. Right now too tired, but I promise to get excited tomorrow.... trust me!

Today was a 22 km walk through some very pleasant forests and farmland. Nothing terribly strenuous. The ankle is holding up so far. Not pleasant to walk on, but not really all that painful as long as I watch my step.

The albergue I stayed at last night in Arzua was very pleasant. Very clean and uncrowded dormatories. Tonight´s albergue is equally nice. I´ve found that the further I get into Galicia, the better the private albergues become. I mean you´re still sleeping on a bunkbed in a room with 15 - 30 strangers, and how pleasant can that be? But, these have been some of the best.

I was thinking today that I have been lax, very lax, in thanking someone who has been there all along for me on this journey of mine. My wife, Anne-Marie, has been my chief coach and cheerleader, even when she wasn´t sure just why I was undertaking this thing. On the darker moments of this journey when I would be depressed by injury or fatigue, it was she who kept me motivated. On the longer and lonelier stretches of this walk, I would imagine her hand slipping into mine and that would raise my spirits and lighten my step. I can honestly say that both of us, not just I will complete this journey tomorrow. Hon, I know that you thought that I was just a little crazy to undertake this but you totally supported me nonetheless. I know that I can never thank you enough for believing in me as you have done.... but I will certainly try. I love you. I miss you. I cannot wait to see you next week.

September 26, 2011

It´s the day after the last post and I haven´t changed my plans yet! This is a minor miracle. I am 40 km from Santiago de Compostela! I will walk tomorrow to Arca, and then on Sept 28 I hope to enter Santiago.

I say hope because there is a fly in the ointment. I appear to be walking on a sprained ankle. Well, actually I am walking on a sprained ankle, albeit a minor one. The rest day I took back in Portomarin was good for the body but not long enough for the ankle.

I find that with a good taping each morning, I can walk fine on it. I just have to watch when the path gets a little rough. However, on the plus side I am developing amazing slalom-like skills with my walking poles. Confuses the hell out of anyone walking behind me. The more so since most of whom I´ve met on the Camino have no idea about winter sports.

Today, I did about 21 km. I had planned a careful walk stopping at any albergue or bar along the way to rest. Unfortunately, every one within the first 11 or so km was closed! Finally, just outside of Lobreiro, I ran into the Bar Of The Two Germans (actually the name was in German and Spanish, but that´s the translation!). I also ran into two Canadians, from Saint John NB. We had a great time talking about my old NB stomping grounds and what the Camino is like. They had just started in Sarria, which is the closest point to Santiago from which you can start and still be considered to have walked the Camino. Anyway, the chat led to a much longer and needed rest.

Only dissappointment today was that I didn´t stop to eat in Melida, the next town on the way. Melida is famous for its pulpo galego, octopus in the Galegan style. I´d had it earlier in the Camino and it is delicious.

Tomorrow´s walk is about 2/3´s on natural paths shaded by eucalyptus trees, as if I would recognize them. I´ll cross three river valleys, the rios Ladron, Languello and Burgo. Hopefully, I end up tomorrow at Arca, last major town before Santiago. At least, that´s the plan :-)

September 25, 2011

Welcome to the Camino where things rarely turn out as planned.

Had planned on a stop at Ventas do Naron. Turns out to be two albergues (very nice) and nothing else. When you arrive at where you plan to spend the night, it nice to have a town (or small village) to stroll through after a shower and rest. So, I´m in Palas de Rei.

Stopped in Ventas at one of the albergues for a beer, and had a very nice chat with a Danish couple. One of the great joys of the Camino is the people you meet from around the world. I´ve met people from all over Europe, of course. But also from Brazil, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, Korea, South Africa, and Iceland.

Anyway, we gat to talking and I mentionned that one of the things I was looking for was the eucalyptus trees that are so prevalent through Galicia. Turns out I´d already walked through an entire grove of them and didn´t even know it!

Plans for the rest of the trip have been revised again. What can I say, it´s an ongoing Camino hobby! I.m back to arriving in Santiago on Sept 28, again. Stay tuned for further developments:-)

September 24, 2011

What I didn´t mention in yesterday´s blog was that I didn´t so much enter Portomarin as limp in. An old problem has arisen. When I took off my boots yesterday one of my ankles had swollen quite a bit. Very painful to walk on. So, today is now a rest day in Portomarin. I iced the ankle last night and kept it elevated. Much better today, but still would benefit from a little more rest. Just grin and bear it :-)

I think I´m now planning on entering Santiago de Compostela on the morning of Friday September 30. I´ll stop for the night at Monte Gozo, about 5 km outside of Santiago. The rationale for stopping when I´m practically there relates to the Pilgrim´s Office. When you enter Santiago, all peregrinos register with the Pilgrim´s Office to receive their compostela. This also ensures that you are mentionned in the next day´s pilgrim´s mass (I think it´s next day) that takes place in the Cathedral. By mid-morning, the lineup at the Pilgrim´s Office can be long enough to cause almost an hour´s wait.

Reflections:

I had thought that I would end this blog once I´m back home with some thoughts and reflections on the Camino. But, since I now have some time on my hands, here are some initial thoughts to be honed and finetuned later.

1. Physical Training & Preparation.... No matter how much you train, it will likly never be enough. The variety of terrain through which you must go is amazing. Outside of the young people, almost no one completes the Camino without some damage, albeit temporary. It becomes a fact of life in the albergues to see people treating their feet and walking around with bandages on them. Foot problems, and their treatment, are a staple of conversation on the Camino. Your training should not only include distance but also elevation. Be prepared to walk up and down incessantly.

2. Mental Preparation.... This is the tricky one. Because people will always walk at their own pace, unless you travel in a close group and consciously stay together you will almost always spend some part of the day walking alone. To put it bluntly, large parts of the Camino are rather uninteresting. The Meseta is magical when first encountered, but after a few days the heat and flat plains do get to you. Walking through Galician farmland is fascinating, but after a while the farm smells and cow dung on the trail do begin to lose their magical quality. Couple this with a general tiredness which all seem to feel as the Camino progresses, and it takes a mental toughness to keep going. Walking alone the mind will wander and you will find yourself questionning this trek. It can be hard to keep going when it is so easy just to call it a day and cab it to the next town.

The Camino is an interesting thing. At times it seems almost alive. You don´t take on the Camino. You don´t try and beat the Camino, or conquer it. You have to treat it with respect or it will wallop you down. After walking for four weeks, these are the kind of conversations that peregrinos have at the end of the day. You´re not going crazy, you´re just beginning to understand the Camino.

September 23, 2011

Arrived in Portomarin, roughly 94 km to Santiago. Today´s walk was about 23 km. Longer than usual, but there really wasn´t anywhere practical to stay before here.

The walk today was almost totally through farm country in a heavy mist.

One enters Portomarin, after a long winding descent, across a long bridge. And, then you have to climb a steep set of steps to get to the bottom of town. Fortunately, there is a albergue at the bottom end of town because when you leave in the morning, you must go back down the steps to get to the Camino!

Tomorrow, not sure where I will end up. I´m aiming for Ventas de Naron, which I should reach after a 300 m climb and 50 m descent? Just get up and go, I guess!

Sept 22, 2011

Part 2 of the update.

By the way, apologies for not updating sooner, but I guess I got spoiled with the internet access earlier.

So, where were we.... ah yes, leaving Ponferrada. As usual, left there in the dark. Thanks Dear for the headlamp.... it´s been very useful!

The road from Ponferrada was pleasant, nothing very spectaular. Arrived in Camponaraya and stopped for cafe and a bite to eat. There we spotted the first bit of Celtic culture that we expect to see throughout Galicia. Walking down the Camino (aka the main street) there´s a small church on the left. Outside a small band waiting to play. The women in long black dresses and the men in black knee pant and vests. It´s a bagpipe and drum band! Did not get to hear them play.

Leaving Camponaraya, we pass a cooperative winery (free tastings, but closed on Sundays) and then across the highway to go through vineyards. Just started walking through and grape picker stops us to hand us each a large bunch of grapes.... very sweet and juicy! And, on into Cacabelos (A Wine City of Europe, or so the sign at the entrance to town says.)

Dinner is with two fellow peregrinos, Andy and Anita from Australia. Dinner in a rural hotel complex. All very much promoting the local culture and cuisine. Dinner is an ox steak.... incredible beefy flavour. The albergue here is a old church on the far side of town. It has a ring of small two bed cabins around it. But each cabin has no window and hence no air at night! Very hot and stuffy! Also, a bit of a nightmare for the claustrophobic.

Off again the next morning before daylight. We head for La Portela to rest and spend the night before tackling O´Cebreiro.

La Portela is in reality a truck stop. Nothing there but an albergue/restaurant and a truck stop restaurant/hotel. The albergue is pleasant. Dinner is at the truck stop.... kidneys in sherry....yum, yum!!

Next day, we´re off again in the dark.... Hon, did I thank you for the light?

And, now we climb up to O´Cebreiro....about 550 m in 8 km. And, of course it´s almost all on rediculously rocky and uneven paths. One path is actually a switch back and uses up my not inconsiderable store of curse words.

O´Cebreiro (when we finally reach it, sweaty and out of breath) is a gem! We´re now well and truly into Galicia; the heartland of Celtic Spain. The buildings are all of stone. Celtic music plays in the square. Quite something!

From, O´Cebreiro it´s a long gradual downhill trek to Triacastela. Originally we´d planned to stop at Fonfria, which turns out to be cow heaven! One small street with nothing to see and a lot to smell. So, on to Triacastela! Down an approximately 600 m drop in about 5 km!

Such last minute decisions should not be taken on the Camino. We finally arrive in Triacastela and it´s about 4:00. This is very late to find a bed in an albergue. However, the gods smile upon us and we get bunks in a fairly new albergue. Dinner at a nearby restaurant.... paella for starters.... not bad, but have had much better. The grilled lamb chops are wonderful, however!

Today! A long trek down (and up) into Sarria. The heat is still on, although not as intense as on the Meseta. Stll, arrived sweaty and hot around 1:30 in old town Sarria only to be confronted by the real entrance to old town Sarria.... a three story set of stairs! Finally up to the top and along the narrow street to a nice albergue.... Nice in the sense that it had new and very clean showers!

Sarria is the closest place to Santiago where you can start and still get a compostela.

I am about 6 days from Santiago!!!!!

Cannot believe that I have come this far.

More tomorrow.... if I can find internet!

Sept 21, 2011

It,s very late by albergue standards, 8:30! The lights are fading and people are heading for their bunks to prepare for tomorrow,s early start. Did I mention that around 5:00 is when some people start to get up and pack their bags? For the rest of us, it,s try and grab an extra hour of sleep before heading out in the dark around 7 or 7:30.

So I think that I shall head to my bunk (lower thank God) and get ready for an early start tomorrow in the dark. I´ll update tomorrow afternoon about eh past two days.

September 21, 2011

No internet for three days! So some updating to do, from Acebo to Triacastela!

Part 1 - September 17

Acebo was a beautiful mountain town that we reached after quite the vertical descent. In fact, as you finally descended into the town you immediately faced a small outdoor bar. It seemed like everyone made that their first stop for a cold beer and small plate of olives. I had just sat down when a young guy from Toronto whom I had met on the descent, hobbled into view. He joined me for a cool one and then before long the table was full of sweating, thirsty peregrinos. Most climbing and descending paths tend to be extremely uneven and very rocky.

Leaving there we had a pleasant stroll for about 3 km, and then we were into the downhill again. Quite steep into Molinaseca. This town is realy not something I had expected. It had a rather Alpine appearance in its architecture. Would not have been surprized to hear German being spoken. The temperature was quite cool as well. A lot of very interesting bars/restaurants and casa rurals.

The walk into Ponferrade was spectacularly uninteresting, through suburbs and industrial areas. However, old town Ponferrada is a gem. From the Templars castle (that dominates the landscape) to the winding medieval streets and plazas and outdoor cafes, I enjoyed every minute of it. Part of that enjoyment was probably based on taking a holiday from albergues. Speaking some days previously with a German couple they shared their secret, when hitting a larger town, of visiting the tourism office and asking after cheap casa rurales, etc. Anyway, the upshot was that I ended up in an amazing wonderful restoration of an old hotel. Beautiful room with view of the Templar Castle, AND A PRIVATE WASHROOM!!

Dinner time. Will try to bring this up to date before the night is over.... including the wonderful wine country around Cacabelos and the spectacular mounttop town of O´Cebreiro.

September 16,2011

First things first, Happy Birthday to my baby sister!

I´m now in Acebo, having crossed the highest point on the Camino. I passed by the Cruz de Ferro (cross of iron)1504 m above sea level. Here stands a simple iron cross atop a gigantic wooden pole buried in a tall pile of rocks and loose stones. The idea is that peregrinos leave here a stone carried from their home and with it leave behind a troubling or sad thoughts. The reality is a little less magical and spiritual with cyclists in gaudy cycling attire and peregrines clambering up the rock pile to have their picture taken hugging the pole.

I left my rock, said a few silent words and walked on. And yes, I had a walking companion take my picture from a discreet distance.

The climb was not onerous.... tiring yes, but not painful. The descent was an altogether different affair. First, it was quite steep. Second, the path was primarily rocks and gravel scattered over a pathway that was full of half buried rocks and roots. The knee was definitely twinging by the bottom, and my left foot still aches.

A brief scare regarding the pack. A couple of us decided to use a service to send our packs ahead. We arrived but they apparently did not. Finally located them in a different albergue. Worked out okay as this was a better albergue than we had planned to stay at.

All the usual daily chores are done, and a brief rest taken. Waiting for dinner at 7:30. A glance says that this peregrin menue should be better than most.

Tomorrow, a short day.... as good as a rest day. Finish with the descent down the mountain in the morning, then a short tramp into Ponferrada. Hope to get an hour or two to explore the restored Templar Castle. Also, as Ponferrada is the last large town (60,000) before Santiago, a chance to visit a farmacia and restock up on bandages, etc.

Now, time for a beer with friends.

September 15, 2011

I´m in Rabanal del Camino, approximately 250 km from Santiago de Compostela. Today´s walk was rather hot, and uphill. Overall, we´ve gone from 900 to 1100 m. Tomorrow begins with a climb of about 400 m.

Have just finished the usual post walk chores.... shower, check feet and do laundry. My laundry is on the line to dry and now it´s started to cloud over!

Climbing up to the mountians of western Leon, one of more noticable changes is the construction material used in the small villages. Mostly the building and fences are made of field stone. Makes for a much more interesting walk than the broken adobe walls of many of the villages of the Meseta.

At 250 km from Santiago, it now occurs me that I am about 10 km away from having completed two-thirds of my journey! Hard to fathom, but then thinking back much is a blur. I have trouble remembering one albergue from another, or one town from another.... but for the exceptions, of course.

Uh oh.... the skies have just openned up and it is pouring. Better go and rescue my laundry.

September 14, 2011

Well, first the dinner update from last night. Turns out that there was another place at which to eat in Villadongas. There´s a highly recommended bodega there. Bodega is like a wine cellar, and this one was a pretty cool restaurant complete with large fireplace grill where they cooked. They had a decent peregrino menu. I had stewed fava beans for the first course. Don´t usually like them, but another peregrino recommended them. Very nice! Second course was steak grilled on fireplace. Good flavour, but chewy as all get out! Forgot about the difference in how cattle are raised between Europe and North America.

Now, the positional update.... today was supposed to be a short walk to Hospital de Orbigo. Unfortunately, it turned out to be too short as I arrived there at 10:00 in the morning. This was much too early to stop. Too little to see to use up the time. So, I´m now in Astorga, 272 km from Santiago!

Astorga has the bishops palace designed by Antoni Gaudi; just waiting for the museum to open. The cathedral is wonderfully abroque on the outside.

Astorga is also the start of the climb in the mountains of western Leon and Galicia. The plan (such as I have any plan) is to walk to Rabanal tomorrow. This is about a 200 m climb over about 20 km. The theory is that this positions you well for the morning´s ascent up Puerta Irago, at 1505 m, the highest point on the Camino. it is also where you will find the Cruz de Ferro. This is a small iron cross erected atop a tall pole. The pole is in the centre of a large mound of small rocks brought from around the world and deposited here.

At least, that´s the plan for now!

September 13, 2011

I am now in Villladango del Paramo, 302 km from Santiago.

Today was about 23 km. It seemed that an incredible amount of that was trying to get out of Leon. The suburbs just went on and on. However, finally out of that and into a the broad flat countryside of the Meseta. Very hot and very little shade.

Villadangos is a very small village at the convergence of two highways. Which, of course, is where they put the albergue! This is a municiple albergue, run by the community. Very basic. Bunk beds in a dormitory, shared showers, etc. Still trying to find a restaurant to have dinner. If not, dinner is from the small food supply you always try and carry.

it´s about 3:30 and the albergue hasn´t filled up yet. Hopefully this isn´t because others know something we don´t.

Tomorrow I think will be a very short one.... about 15 km into Hospital de Orbigo. The next big town is Astorga, about 30 km away. However, I´ve learned the hard way that I should not do 30 km days. So, 15 it shall be.

September 11, 2011

It´s now Monday and I´m in Leon. Arrived yesterday, but more about that later.

In my last post I had arrived in Mansilla de las Mulas and was waiting for the albergue to open. There is a convention on the Camino that albergues open for walkers first. While those who are cycling the Camino are welcome, they must usually wait for an hour or so before they are allowed to check in. This is to give some priority to the walkers. Apparently not at this albergue, where a group of cyclists was let in first! As it turned out, it was not the best albergue to stay in. I had barely got settled and was heading to the shower when one of the people I had gotten to know called me and said that she had found a bedbug and was leaving. I was about 2 minutes behind her with my stuff. I had little problem getting my credencial back from the hospitalaria and no money had changed hands at this point. However, I later heard that some were given a hard time by the hospitalaria for wanting to leave! Not one of the Caminos most shining moments.

Ended up checking into a nice new albergue, where a number of my new friends were also staying. Had a pleasant time. Except, that the town was starting a festival and bands and fireworks were busy all night. In fact, as we left the next morning through the dark streets we could still hear the music playing in the main square. Hilarious!

The walk to Leon was mostly uneventful. Passed through a few small towns stopping in one, Villarente for cafe con leche and tostada. A little later we took a washroom break at a small cafe in Arcahueja, about 6 km from Leon. Great little place! We ended up having cafe con leche and home made almond cake, while playing pinball!

I am now about 325 km from my goal, Santiago de Compostala, and have walked over 400 km. No wonder I feel tired.

I´m off for a cafe con leche.

September 10, 2011

HALF WAY! I am in Mansilla de las Mulas, about 343 km away from Santiago de Compostela. Of course, if I was doing something sensible, like driving, I could do this in a day. But, by walking it will take me just under 3 weeks.... and I´m a university graduate!

From Sahagun, I did make the walk to El Burgo Ranero. Long and hot walk on very dusty paths. The albergue there was a nice one. Rather small with beds for about 28. Cozy!

Spoke to someone on the path about how I liked to cook. So, I got elected to cook dinner in the albergue last night- There were about 6 of us. It was nice. They shopped for food while I sat across the street and had a beer!

Up early this morning at 5;30 to hit the road by 6:00 am. Here on the Meseta you have to do this as the sun is too hot by mid-morning. So, you walk under the stars, and hope you don´t miss the path.

I see that the albergue is about to open and, since it is first come first serve, I better get in line. I will try and update more later today.