By the way, apologies for not updating sooner, but I guess I got spoiled with the internet access earlier.
So, where were we.... ah yes, leaving Ponferrada. As usual, left there in the dark. Thanks Dear for the headlamp.... it´s been very useful!
The road from Ponferrada was pleasant, nothing very spectaular. Arrived in Camponaraya and stopped for cafe and a bite to eat. There we spotted the first bit of Celtic culture that we expect to see throughout Galicia. Walking down the Camino (aka the main street) there´s a small church on the left. Outside a small band waiting to play. The women in long black dresses and the men in black knee pant and vests. It´s a bagpipe and drum band! Did not get to hear them play.
Leaving Camponaraya, we pass a cooperative winery (free tastings, but closed on Sundays) and then across the highway to go through vineyards. Just started walking through and grape picker stops us to hand us each a large bunch of grapes.... very sweet and juicy! And, on into Cacabelos (A Wine City of Europe, or so the sign at the entrance to town says.)
Dinner is with two fellow peregrinos, Andy and Anita from Australia. Dinner in a rural hotel complex. All very much promoting the local culture and cuisine. Dinner is an ox steak.... incredible beefy flavour. The albergue here is a old church on the far side of town. It has a ring of small two bed cabins around it. But each cabin has no window and hence no air at night! Very hot and stuffy! Also, a bit of a nightmare for the claustrophobic.
Off again the next morning before daylight. We head for La Portela to rest and spend the night before tackling O´Cebreiro.
La Portela is in reality a truck stop. Nothing there but an albergue/restaurant and a truck stop restaurant/hotel. The albergue is pleasant. Dinner is at the truck stop.... kidneys in sherry....yum, yum!!
Next day, we´re off again in the dark.... Hon, did I thank you for the light?
And, now we climb up to O´Cebreiro....about 550 m in 8 km. And, of course it´s almost all on rediculously rocky and uneven paths. One path is actually a switch back and uses up my not inconsiderable store of curse words.
O´Cebreiro (when we finally reach it, sweaty and out of breath) is a gem! We´re now well and truly into Galicia; the heartland of Celtic Spain. The buildings are all of stone. Celtic music plays in the square. Quite something!
From, O´Cebreiro it´s a long gradual downhill trek to Triacastela. Originally we´d planned to stop at Fonfria, which turns out to be cow heaven! One small street with nothing to see and a lot to smell. So, on to Triacastela! Down an approximately 600 m drop in about 5 km!
Such last minute decisions should not be taken on the Camino. We finally arrive in Triacastela and it´s about 4:00. This is very late to find a bed in an albergue. However, the gods smile upon us and we get bunks in a fairly new albergue. Dinner at a nearby restaurant.... paella for starters.... not bad, but have had much better. The grilled lamb chops are wonderful, however!
Today! A long trek down (and up) into Sarria. The heat is still on, although not as intense as on the Meseta. Stll, arrived sweaty and hot around 1:30 in old town Sarria only to be confronted by the real entrance to old town Sarria.... a three story set of stairs! Finally up to the top and along the narrow street to a nice albergue.... Nice in the sense that it had new and very clean showers!
Sarria is the closest place to Santiago where you can start and still get a compostela.
I am about 6 days from Santiago!!!!!
Cannot believe that I have come this far.
More tomorrow.... if I can find internet!
No comments:
Post a Comment